Discovering perfection

I have always dreamed of Tuscany; every clichéd, romantic Hollywood image of it. Somewhere in my deepest desires, I have images of a sun kissed stone villa with lipstick coloured geraniums spilling out of terracotta pots. I dream of verdant vineyards spilling down straw coloured hills, and a tapestry landscape punctuated by dark green cypress, offering their salutations to the sun. I dream of a dim lit cantina permeated by the smell of fermenting grapes and sitting at a table in a bustling piazza; sipping a wine that imprints these images on your soul. These images of Tuscany epitomize my ultimate in gourmet travel and have lead to my love of Italian wines.

My friends know about my lust for all things Italian and also my blatant ignorance when it comes to the concept of risk. They have witnessed first hand, my crazy acquisitions, such as us buying a vacant old pub, desperately in need of restoration with no real assessment other than “I like it.” Thankfully that impulse purchase turned out OK; with a massive amount of life changing hard work. They say that humans forget pain and that is obviously the case or we would all be single child families. So it would have been no surprise to my friends, to see me in Tuscany, climbing through prickly brambles (in my new Italian sandals) to explore a derelict old farmhouse, whilst the Vineyard Manager (AKA my husband) looked on with a panicked expression on his face. Whenever I go on holidays I seem to be exploring the local real estate. I have visions of restoring old buildings that even Kevin McCloud would deem impossible. I can’t even sit in a pub without mentally renovating it, doing calculations on coasters and re-writing its menu. So here I was, crawling around, knee deep in nocuous bushes; my visions of ‘la dolce vita’ projecting their rose coloured filter across the facade of this decaying old building. I have never been certain what inspires this behaviour within me, but I think Tuscany finally made me understand.



We booked our Tuscan getaway at the villas at Podernouvo, Castel del Piano. Of the two villas, we chose Il Seccatoio. It was once a chestnut drying house. Owners, Umberto and Alvina, who are extremely generous hosts, lovingly rebuilt and restored the old stone buildings. The villas and small farm are everything that you imagine Tuscany to be. Upon arrival, I felt an instant calming; I am not sure if it was the spectacular views looking across to the Mediaeval hilltop village of Montegiovi or the aromatic oils of the garden lavender emanating in the warm Tuscan air. In the villa, we were greeted by a beautifully baked loaf of bread, fragrant red tomatoes, a vase full of sweet basil & other herbs, figs, fresh farm eggs and the farm’s own olive oil, wine and balsamic vinegar. The village provided us with any supplies that Alvina and Umberto’s burgeoning garden didn’t. We stocked up on some good sausages, prosciutto, salami, pecorino cheese and aqua minerale.



Tuscany’s most important wine zone is Chianti Classico - the heart of Chianti, between Florence and Siena, however the area of Montalcino, to the South of Siena is Tuscany’s shining star. The commune of Castel del Piano is on the slopes of Monte Amiata (Tuscany’s highest peak) and is a picturesque 30 minute drive south of Montalcino. They say that Monte Amiata helps shelter Montalcino making it one of the warmest, driest parts of the region and therefore Sangiovese ripens here better than anywhere else.

Sangiovese is believed to get its name from Sangue di Giove ‘the blood of Jove (Jupiter)’. Others believe the name came from San Giovanni (St John the patron Saint of grape growers). Either way, in this part of the world this black grape takes centre stage. Despite Montalcino’s long history, the wine that makes it famous, is relatively recent. In the 19th century a clone of sangiovese vine was isolated for its quality. This superior clone was named Brunello. It is a powerful concentrated expression of sangiovese, with incredible depth of flavour and structure, which allows it to age for decades.

Over half the Montalcino DOCG zone (Denominazione di origine controllata -controlled designation of origin) is planted to Brunello. Explaining the DOCG system is a complicated affair; Italy’s classification system being as ordered as it’s driving! It’s largely related to tipicita (typicity) and for this reason Brunello has been the subject of arguments between the traditionalists and the modern winemakers and even a scandal in 2008, which the Italian media named Brunellopoli. Many wineries were investigated for secretly putting other grapes into their Brunello. Brunello di Montalcino is a 100% single varietal, made to age for many years. It is has to be aged for four years before release (at least 2 years in oak). The avant-garde argue that 10-15% blending of other grapes can improve the sometimes-temperamental sangiovese. The contemporary winemaker uses French barriques instead of large oak botti (barrels), which help soften the prominent sangiovese tannins. While the change in oak regime is allowed under the DOCG, blending with other grapes is actually a criminal offence. To me it’s an appalling shame to want to mess with something so perfect and I consider myself on the side of the traditionalists; a blend may well be superior (or not) but it can be easily translated into another classification.



Montalcino, which was developed between the 13th and 17th centuries, is a fortified citadel, sitting on top of a hill. It is the perfect Tuscan town with unspoilt medieval architecture through the town centre. The fortezza stands guard as you walk past its imposing walls into the narrow streets of the town. There are plenty of tourists wandering around, but the town is not spoilt for it. We took a full day to explore Montalcino; three hours of which involved eating lunch. There are plenty of interesting sights and shops to explore, including the shoe shop where I purchased the above-mentioned bramble trampling sandals.



Umberto recommended that we have lunch at Enoteca Osteria Osticchio. We found the beautiful Enoteca with its pretty outdoor tables nestled along Via Matteotti (which runs from the Piazza del Popolo). We enquired about lunch and were told it was full. I mentioned to the apologetic waiter that friends, who live locally, recommended we dine there. “Ah yes! This is a problem” was the response and he offered us a table for 2.00pm. We gratefully accepted as we were not in a hurry and certainly weren’t starving, having already stuffed ourselves with Italian food for the past week.

Tuscan food is simple and rustic, however it demands quality ingredients. Produce needs to come fresh from the farm to the plate. Bread is the basis of meals. Bruschetta is popular served as antipasti; slices of toasted bread, drizzled with olive oil, rubbed with garlic and topped with juicy tomatoes, or with chicken liver, chopped veal, anchovies and capers. Panzanella is a popular Tuscan bread salad made with bread soaked in water and vinegar and then mixed with anchovies, onions, olives, tomato and basil. Tuscany is abundant in excellent salamis and prosciutto. I couldn’t get enough of the amazing fennel seed salami. Pecorino, which is a sheep’s milk cheese, is the prominent cheese of the region; the rind often tinted by the producer with tomato, walnut leaves or charcoal. Tuscany is of course famous for its Bistecca alla Fiorentina. This is a T-bone steak, obtained from the Chianina breed of cattle. It is usually about half a kilo in size, cooked on the grill with little seasoning and served rare.

If you manage to snag a table at the back of the Enoteca, you will be treated with breathtaking views of the region, over the terracotta planter boxes (geranium filled of course). We enjoyed an outdoor table on the street. We started our meal with Patè di fegatini di pollo con crostini Chicken liver pate on bread and Acciughe sottopesto con burro aromatizzato marinated anchovies in parsley pesto. We didn’t choose a wine, instead we allowed our very attentive waiter to choose for us across the four courses. The first was a Trebbiano, a white grape that the critics don’t particularly favour. It is often given tasting notes that refer to it as short, neutral, high in acidity and boring. As I savoured the simple and beautiful flavours of the anchovies, I had several thoughts. The dish was so far from “Haute Cuisine”, so far from the creations of the three hat or three star brigades and certainly on a completely different planet to molecular gastronomy, yet it was totally exquisite in its simplicity; and here was this supposedly characterless wine, which in that moment, at that table, tasted superb; it was a totally authentic experience.



We were poured a 1995 Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino. The wine was distinctly rural in its character, displaying savoury nuances in its flavour and texture, which so completely encapsured the countryside where it is grown. Like Tuscany, the wines appeal was its raw, rustic, authentic beauty. The first impression was the deep pervasive cherry nose. The aroma took me back to childhood, when my parents would give me the maraschino cherries, which use to garnish most drinks in those days. The palate was long and generous; intense with a morello cherry character (but no cocktail garnish sweetness); persuasive and powerful with an abundance of earthy tannins; there were hints of dried herbs; herbs such as sage and oregano used in Italian cooking. In the glass there was fresh baked bread, fragrant red tomatoes, figs, olive oil and a sun kissed stone villa surrounded by lavender, rosemary bushes and the damp rich earth of a farmyard. It was indeed a wine that spoke of deep connection with the land.

When it comes to Italian wines, I had always thought that the Barolos were my holy grail, but after visiting Montalcino I can confirm that my heart is now firmly captivated by Tuscany and the Brunellos.

Rosso di Montalcino is a DOC classification. It allows the winemakers to declassify grapes if they are unsuitable for a Brunello. The grapes are 100% sangiovese, but typically not aged as long; a baby brunello, which offers a fresher, less full-bodied style. They are more approachable in their youth. In 1996 the Sant’ Antimo DOC classification was also approved. This is a classification for a wide variety of red and white grapes produced in the area. The name comes from a beautiful abbey Abbazia di Sant’ Antimo. This is a Romanesque Abbey dating back to 781 and the time of Charlemagne. The alabaster and travertine façade is almost camouflaged against the colour of the surrounding sun parched fields; yet standing at the Abbey and looking back toward Castelnuovo dell’Abate is a landscape of quintessential Tuscan patchwork.



No matter where you stay in Tuscany, you need a car to get around. A navigation system is helpful, but don’t expect it to be up to date, particularly on the rural back roads. Our “never fail” GPS uttered the words “recalculate” on several occasions, so we went back to the old fashioned method of navigating; wife attempts to read the map, gets it wrong and husband and wife end up bickering over who got who lost. Whilst in Montalcino, I desperately wanted to visit Máté Wines. Ferenc Máté is the author of several books about Tuscany. “A vineyard in Tuscany” tells the story of Ferenc and his wife Candace setting up their life in Montalcino. Victims of our GPS, we couldn’t properly follow the instructions to their vineyard. We became unstuck on their road (probably right outside their door).



Castello Banfi is a ‘must visit’. The castle can be traced to the ancient Etruscans and is the tourism face of the 7,100 acre Banfi estate. There is a wine museum, with an interesting display of ancient grape and olive presses, Etruscan tools, bowls, bottles and vases. We enjoyed a stunning degustazione lunch (yes another five courses) in the Taverna. An excellent carpaccio was served with a 2010 Fontanelle chardonnay; home made fusilli with Chianino beef ragoût, with a 2006 Tavernelle (an IGT 100% Cabernet Sauvignon); grilled pork fillet with rosemary potatoes was the perfect foil for the lovely 2008 BelnerO (predominately sangiovese – Toscana IGT); a selection of Pecorino with Montalcino honey and pine nuts with the magnificent Castello Banfi 2006 Brunello di Montalcino and a fruit bavaroise with a cheeky light sparkling red named ‘rosa regale’ which is made from 100% Brachetto, from the south of Piedmont. The wines were perfectly matched to the courses. After lunch we wandered around and visited the impressive tasting room and the balsameria. Many of the IGT wines, such as the BelnerO are great value for money.



Montepulciano is another perfect Tuscan town. The Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is mainly sangiovese (minimum 70%), blended with Canaiolo Nero (10%–20%) and small amounts of other local grapes. The historic cellars of Palazzo Contucci, just off the Piazza Grande are fascinating. The Contucci family has a long and prestigious association with Montepulciano dating back to the 11th century. The wines are very good and despite the tasting room being very busy, the staff were super friendly and informative.



An outdoor table on the terrace of Osteria del Borgo offered superb views across to the hills of Siena. The wine bar itself having barrel vaults dating back to the Etruscan era.

I think often about the exquisite food that we enjoyed in Tuscany; genuinely beautiful, uncomplicated food with its provenance bared on the plate. I think about the wines and the winemakers wanting to blend grapes with their sangiovese to ‘improve’ it, to tame it and take the raw edge off it. For the moment, I’ll leave the old crumbling farmhouse resting in the brambles, because Tuscany has led me to understand that sometimes it is the ‘imperfections’ in things that make them so perfect.

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