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After Christmas, we needed a bit of a break and I had a strong desire for some warm tropical water. We decided to head just over the equator to beautiful Malaysia and specifically to Pangkor Laut – an island paradise about 3 hours south of Penang.
The main resort lobby and restaurant
Pangkor Laut is a three hundred acre private island, three miles off the west coast of Malaysia, along the Straits of Malacca. It is accessed from the port town of Lumut and is just across the water from Pangkor Island. The island has secluded bays and wooden buildings which blend seamlessly into the rainforest. There is nothing to do except laze around the beach, the island pools, be pampered at the amazing spa village and enjoy the wonderful local cuisine. I loved the char kway teow and enjoyed this several times for lunch at Chapman's Bar beside the beach.
Char kway teow
Whilst at Pangkor Laut, we tasted some amazing chicken rendang. It was so delicious and unlike any version of chicken rendang I had tasted previously. I decided to do a cooking school, with the resort chefs and learn the secrets behind this Malay favourite.
I have researched several recipes of rendang and there seems to be a wet and a dry version. This recipe certainly falls into the previous category. Most versions I have seen of this dish have an abundance of desiccated coconut. In this recipe the coconut is made into a paste, which completely changes the finished texture.
Cooking classes at Pangkor Laut begin with a leisurely breakfast with the Chef. I dined with Pangkor Laut’s Sous Chef, Edward Chung. Roti Canai is a popular choice for breakfast here. It is served with Dhal or with kari ayam (chicken curry). Large platters of tropical fruit are also plentiful with dragon fruit, melons and the crunchy Malay roseapples.
We went to one of the outdoor kitchens for the class. This is near the restaurant, ‘Feast Village’ and we made a fragrant Malay Chicken soup (soto ayam) and Chef Ramalah taught me how to make chicken rendang. The view across the beach made a pleasant backdrop for a morning of cooking.
Chicken Rendang - serves 2
Ingredients
- Chicken thigh fillets - 500 g
- Dried chilli paste - 50 g
- Minced garlic - 50 g
- Minced eschallot - 50 g
- Lemongrass - 5 whole
- Minced ginger - 1 pinch
- Minced galangal - 1 pinch
- Cinnamon sticks - 4
- Cardamom pods - 4
- Star Anise - 2
- Coconut cream - 1 cup
- Turmeric powder - 1 tsp
- Fennel Powder - 1 tsp
- Cumin Powder - 1 tsp
- Coriander Powder - 1 tsp
- Dessicated coconut - 1 cup
- Palm Sugar (dark) - 2 tblsp
- Turmeric Leaf - 3
- Kaffir Lime Leaf - 3
- Salt
- Vegetable oil
1. Toast the dessicated coconut until brown and then puree into a paste.
2. Heat the vegetable oil in the wok and put in the cinnamon sticks, star anise and cardomom pods.
3. Chop the lemongrass into 10cm lengths and place this in as well. Toss until fragrant.
4. Add minced garlic, eschallots, ginger and galangal and stir until golden brown.
5. Add the chilli paste (dried chilli with some water added till it softens and then pureed) and stir for another two minutes.
6. Add turmeric powder, cumin, coriander and fennel powder. Cook for a further few minutes.
7. Add a large spoon full of the coconut paste and cook for a further few minutes. Add the chicken and cook over a medium heat until chicken is browned.
8. Add the coconut cream, the kaffir lime leaves, palm sugar and season to taste with salt. Stir until most of the liquid has gone and the chicken is tender.
I am told by Chef Ramalah that the trick to this dish is the turmeric leaves, which are shredded than placed over the dish at the last moment to infuse a magic flavour into the liquid.
Serve with rice and watch out that the monkeys don't try to steal your lunch.
Or wait till the magnificent tropical sunset and find a secluded table by the beach to enjoy your creation.
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